Buying your New Used MTB

Make sure the bike is the correct type for your riding style (xc, trail, all-mountain, enduro) - don't be tempted to buy too much bike. A bike which is too heavy & burly won't be fun to ride

Go over the bike carefully - here's my checklist:

1. Frame:

   1. Be sure to get what's called 'modern geometry' which is VERY important, especially on a 29er.

   2. No dents - especially with carbon & no paint chips - if there's chips inspect closely for damage

2. Drivetrain:

   1. 1x drivetrain (critical for 29" geometry)

   2. Make sure drivetrain in good shape (Derailleur, sprockets, chainring, etc.)

   3. Make sure Bottom Bracket spins freely, no play & no noise

   4. Pedals - clips or flats (I highly recommend flats & take this opportunity to switch to flats)

   5. Make sure the flats are new or at least new pins - they get chewed up quickly.

   6. New chain - or at least in good condition & no kinked links, properly oiled & no rust. Measure to ensure not stretched near end of life

   7. Fresh derailleur cable & cable tubing

3. Suspension & Fork & shocks:

   1. When was last time shocks (front & rear) and dropper serviced? how many years, if ever...? They should be serviced every couple years to keep in perfect condition

   2. Look at the wiper seals on all suspension & dropper (the seals where the stanchion (inner tube goes into the larger tube) - make sure they look clean & fresh!

   3. Shock & fork operate & move smoothly

   4. Suspension service - has it been serviced regularly? When were the bearings checked or replaced?

   5. Are the suspension linkages & bolts in good condition?

4. Headset:

   1. no play in headset, no noise or binding

5. Seat:

   1. Dropper post

   2. make sure operates smoothly & no damage to post

   3. make sure you have trigger lever on dropper, not lever that pushes top to bottom. (The top-bottom press button has a shorter lever arm & hard to push)

   4. good firm seat with good shape & in good condition

   5. fresh dropper cable & cable tubing

   6. ensure seatpost can be easily removed / adjusted when the collar is opened

   7. if you plan to keep the seat, make sure rails are not bent & seat is in good condition

6. Wheels & tires:

   1. Rims in good shape, no dents

   2. Spokes tight

   3. Hubs good & spin smooth

   4. Tubeless setup - check & be sure.

   5. are tires new - for that price, I hope so

   6. fresh goo in tires

7. Cockpit & handlebars:

   1. make sure grips in good condition, if not, replace

   2. make sure the shifters and brake levers are in good condition

   3. configure cockpit (handlebar setup) for wrist comfort & 1-finger brakes!

   4. (I have RaceFace sniper grips - good mix of comfort & feel)

8. Brakes:

   1. new brake pads or minimal wear

   2. make sure the brakes work well & don't make noise

   3. make sure no damage to the hydraulic lines

   4. firm grip on the brake, no spongy feel (don't let them tell you 'it just needs to be bled' - there may be a big problem hiding here)

   5. stay away from SRAM brakes - they have a bad reputation (and I don't like the ones I've tried). Be ready to upgrade to lowest level Shimano brakes...well worth the investment. NB - the new SRAM brakes may be better, YMMV

9. Spares to be sure you have on hand in your riding pouch:

   1. spare derailleur hanger (around NIS120 - always good to carry a spare - turns a ride ending mistake into a 5 min fix)

   2. tire repair worm kit

   3. fresh bottle of goo

   4. multi tool with tools appropriate for the bike - including a chain tool that matches the chain type

   5. quick link for your chain (each chain is different now, make sure you have the proper link)

10. Spares to keep at home

    1. brake pads

Remember, you're paying good money, make sure everything is in good shape (or at least be aware of the fixer-upper job ahead of you). If you like to do your own maintenance, this may be a great opportunity to save now & pay over time as you upgrade & repair the bike at your leisure (or when the current parts fail and need to be replaced)

Carbon or Aluminum frame?

In general carbon is lighter.

However, much more important is:

1. build quality (bad Al frame is awful, bad carbon is dangerous)

2. suspension design - a well designed suspension is extremely important - my bike is on the heavy side, but the suspension is amazing & handles much better than many light bikes

3. thru-axles are most important for frame stiffness - I'm assuming this bike has that

4. robustness - are you looking for a 1 season race bike (i had a lightweight aluminum bike, after a couple years the frame wasn't steady anymore) or a long-term, robust build.

5. price point - for same cost, I'd recommend Al bike with higher level components rather than a carbon frame with cheaper components (people will tell you you can upgrade components - that's true, but most people don't, and by the time you do, it's outdated & not worth it ;) )

6.  Frame damage & robustness: the issue with carbon is you can't see any damage below the surface. It may appear perfect, but have an internal damage in the frame wall. Aluminum will dent & you can see it. very unusual to have internal non-visible damage to the metal (that would be more a mfg. defect than damage). Fatigue damage is almost invisible on carbon. If you see any stress cracks in the paint - STAY AWAY! - it's often a sign of underlying damage.

How old a bike is still good?

There was a big breakthrough around 2019 in terms of bike geometry & components (chicken & egg discussion as to which led the way).

Therefore, I would say that anything 2019 or later is much better than 2018 or earlier (it depends a bit as to when each mfgr. updated their models).

How important is suspension design? (single pivot vs. Horst Link vs. DW Link vs. VPP, etc.)

Note: DW-Link & Horst Link are specific designs patented by Dave Weagle & Horst Leitner respectively. Many companies use slight variations of these designs to avoid patent issues (see article below). The Hosrt link patent is long expired, so it's well copied. The DW link patent is only expiring now...

For a 3x drivetrain - VERY important, for a 1x, much less so. The DW Link & Horst link solved geometry issues that were very acute on the 3x drivetrains (due to the chain - chainring angle changes).

I really love the DW link suspension that IBIS used in the Ripley v3 & v4 - it's the same suspension as in the Turner 5spot!!!

If you're looking for XC or Trail race with the ability to fly downhill as well & conquer the trail, the DW link suspension is as good as it gets (better than Horst link, IMHO). (If you put the emphasis on down with ability to climb well, Horst better than DW, IMHO).

Again, as a generalization, the DW-Link has a better pedaling platform, the Horst link may be slightly better on the descending (at the price of pedaling) - however, each manufacturer & each bike model are individually tuned - so the difference I find on one pair of bikes, may not be industry representative.

Here's a good link with basic descriptions: https://blisterreview.com/recommended/suspension-101-designs

Bike categories:

I'll try to summarize it in a few sentences - from my perspective, YMMV & I encourage you to try a few bikes (if you can).

1. if you want DH stability avoid the XC category - they're faster, lighter, and more agile

2. Trail or All Mountain are the right category (with Trail being a lighter bike, maybe tuned more for climbing & AM being a heavier bike, maybe tuned more for descending) (from my new perspective, the AM are borderline too much bike - but can be loads of fun if you're willing to put in the pedaling effort)

2a. Short Travel AM - 120-140mm Trail or AM bikes (the Smuggler is right in this category) - this is a new category & is perfect (maybe on the heavy edge) of what's good for most of our riding.

3. Enduro -much too heavy for our riding

Heres's a good link: https://blisterreview.com/recommended/suspension-101-concepts-definitions (a bit outdated, but still relevant)

Bike fit & geometry (I was going to avoid this topic here, but everybody asks, and this is as good a place as any to discuss it):

Here's a good article: https://blisterreview.com/gear-reviews/mountain-bike-reviews/bike-fit-and-geometry-part-1

Frame vs. components (or expensive frame with cheap components vs. cheaper frame with higher level components)

What's better a 2019 or later used with top level components or brand-spanking-new with bottom level shocks and budget mix drivetrain...very hard to say.

Some will say budget today better than top-of-the-line 5yrs old & that's true. From 2019 or 2020, it's pretty good stuff, so I'd go top of the line 2020 (in like-new condition) rather than new budget.

X-fusion & base Rockshox have also come a long way

Personally, from my experience, Al frame with higher component spec. is better deal, but nothing bad about carbon frame with lower spec.

Upgrades - also pay attention to high value added upgrades

Custom wheels, better brakes, dropper post, etc. - it can make a bike that's otherwise overpriced or not such a good deal, a great deal.

If the owner put on custom light or carbon wheels, that makes it worth while (even if you may have to pay to service the suspension immediately)

And more on rims - custom or not...wheel rim width really makes a difference in stability. A 2.3inch tire on a 25 or 26mm wide rim is MUCH more stable than the same tire on a 21 or 23mm rim. (it allows the tire to open a bit flatter (increasing contact angle) and be more sturdy...

Last but not least, read the reviews for the specific model & year of the bike to get a sense of how the pros felt about it when it was new

Remember, it's an investment, with proper basic maintenance and indoor storage, it should give you many years of good service & enjoyment & exploring the holy land

With any used bike, be prepared to spend NIS 1-3k for immediate service.

Drivetrain & tune-up (possibly new cassette / chainring / chain / bottom bracket)

Brake bleed & possibly new pads

front & rear shock service

suspension bearing overhaul

tires

pedals

Real cost

And all this bring us to the bottom-line question: is it really a good deal?

How much will it really cost!

How much is the used bike?

what is the necessary immediate investment to make it rideable?

what is the necessary 1yr forward investment (beyond standard maintenance)?

Can you take the bike for a weekend for a shop-inspection & test ride?

Is the seller flexible to reduce the price based on shop input of immediately required maintenance? Will this, at least partially, offset the required investment?

Compared with a new bike which should be maintenance free for a year or two?

Are you really getting a good deal (or saving enough to make it worth the trouble)?